I’ve been quiet online this week because I’m in Kansas visiting family. We left in the late afternoon on Wednesday and drove to Hays, Kansas that night. The next morning, we drove to my parent’s home south of Kansas City. Friday was spent in Topeka for a funeral service and then Carbondale for the after-mourning meal. I forget what you call that officially. What it ends up being is a huge buffet of everything from pasta to buffalo wings. We’re a big family. We eat heartily.
I’ve been awash with minor observations about Kansas this trip, as I always seem to be. I’ve lived elsewhere for 15 years now, and I feel like I have an outsider’s perspective. I feel like a mostly neutral observer. Sometimes not neutral at all.
It’s spectacularly green this year, although the rain has been manageable and there hasn’t been any flooding yet. It was in the 60s when we arrived and it hit 92 yesterday. I love the countryside, but the weather is doing everything it can to make it miserable for me to enjoy. I’ve adapted myself to life in the dry mountains. Humidity makes me look like the villain from The Incredibles, especially my hair.
Since Saturday, we’ve been holed up in the monster of a house in which my mother, step-father, and younger sister live. It’s something like 3500 square feet, and pretty much my idea of a dream home at nearly 100 years old. The only problem is that it’s in Osawatamie, The Little Town That Couldn’t.
Once, this was a thriving place, with railroad work to be had and the creepy state mental hospital up on the hill overlooking the town, which sits nestled between the junctions of the Osage and Potawatomie Rivers. The hospital only houses the criminally insane and the railroad work left a long time ago. What’s left is a depressed and decaying little place just too far south of Kansas City to turn into a commuter burb. Although nearly everyone who lives here works in the city now, if they work at all.
I went for a walk this morning as people were getting into their cars and headed to their jobs. There wasn’t as much traffic as you’d expect. It was actually very quiet along some of the roads. The houses were once beautiful Victorians, but now are decaying, with bowed porches and paint-chipped flanks facing dusty gravel alleys. Every once and a while, you see some kid’s toys in the yard, but mostly the yards are empty, mostly well-kept. None of them are weed-ridden and completely abandoned. But there are dozens and dozens of for sale signs.
My mom and I went to breakfast and she pointed out some of the houses and told me how much they wanted for them. “That one’s listed at sixty-five thousand.” “That’s a shame, those people worked really hard on that place. The bank’s only asking thirty-five grand for it.”
I’d been picking up on this sense of loss, sadness, and depression since I arrived, but the stories told by these for sale signs really gives a voice to that feeling. Add to that the little shops in their downtown area. No restaurants or coffee shops here; just “antique” (junk) shops, an over-priced electronics store, a barber shop, a couple of banks, and a lot of empty storefronts. There’s a bed and breakfast down the street the size of a small mansion that sold for $300,000 about 6 years ago and is listed at $150,000 today. It sits empty on the main street, windows dark.
And really, who the hell would come to stay in a B&B here? What would they come to see? John Brown’s cabin? An old church made of limestone? You can see those sights in an hour, and then hit the road for more interesting places. They’re not going to stay for the meth houses that keep cropping up along Main Street.
When my parents first moved here in 2001, things were growing slowly. They had a Sears and a tire store, and a few more restaurants. In 2008 or so, the town suffered horrible flooding, and the local economy never had a chance to recover thanks to the national economy tanking shortly afterward.
Each time I visit, it’s a little more quiet, a little more sad and empty. My parents want out, desperately want to sell and get closer to the city, but nobody’s buying. When I talk to my Mom about it, it reminds me of how I felt in Wyoming; trapped within the geography of it all. I could escape temporarily, but for a while I didn’t think I would ever get away. Luckily, things can change. They just take some time.
The low property costs plus the proximity to Kansas City would seem to indicate that Osawatomie just might recover some day. That’s assuming gas prices don’t spiral so completely high that the whole town is abandoned overnight, anyway. But then maybe the city will put in a light rail system that comes through the area. Suddenly Osawatomie would be a very desirable place to live. If I were a local politician, I’d be aiming to make that happen. But I’m just an outside observer.
I call it the Little Town That Couldn’t Anymore. Its glory days are behind it. But I can’t help but hope for some optimistic future. Things like towns don’t die easily in my experience, especially not ones that are 150 years old.
I want it to be the Little Town that Will. Why? I guess that’s just the kind of weird, pessimistic optimist I am. And I hate to see anything die—town, person, or ideal.

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